Lapel Collar - The face of the suit

 
The lapel collar is the 'face' of each suit. He also set the framework for the head of the suit. According large influence of the elements lapel and collar on the overall appearance. In the choice of the suit so you should not only fit, fabric eighth and color. Fashion designer Holger summer are in the gentleman's Blog Tips with which lapel men bring her face to its best.

Lapel collar + = Fasson

The reverse (or premium or flap) is the outward beaten, upper front edge of a jacket (or jacket or blazer). Collar and lapels together form the shape and are connected by the so-called Crochet or mirror seam. These shifts with the fashion further upward to the neck or down toward the chest. Accordingly, the lapel times larger or smaller, which is also the height of the top knob depends on the jackets.
 
Follow the lapel of Crochetnaht and has the lapel top to bottom, then a sharp Crochet-angle and one speaks of a notch lapel. Increases the lapel at the apex of the Crochet-angle with facing up to peak lapel, one speaks of a peaked lapel.

Consistent and creative variations

In the 1950s until the 1980s, was played much more and more with different collars and lapels widths. Time the collar was much smaller than the reverse, and sometimes towered above the collar lapel significantly. Meanwhile, however, have collar and lapel mostly a similar width to form a unit.
 
Due to the required rapid manufacturing has the fashion opted for this variant, and all the intermediate forms ("broken lapel") are currently extinct quasi.
 
These sketches show two of these lost opportunities: a jacket with a Raglananlage where the Crochetnaht the course of the raglan follows (left), and a four-button jacket with patch pockets, where the lapel is wider than the collar (right).
 

Also almost no longer be found, is a sports jacket without collar and lapels. This sleek black jacket and with a satin stripe on the edge makes even the tuxedo competition. Or the jacket with small lapel and large collar (left). The next variant, there is the shawl collar, in which the outer fabric like a scarf placed around the neck. Here is no external Crochetnaht to find, and there is neither gradation nor incision between lapel and collar (right).
 

Collar and lapels have an enormous effect on appearance

Collar and lapel surround the wearer's neck, on the turn, our most important body part is located - the head. Our face we wish to present to the best advantage, of course. Like a photo we are looking for the perfect setting.
 
The importance of collars and lapels for the appearance One must be aware of in order to vote at the election of the suit a suitable model. Who pays attention only to cut and color, not unlocks the full potential of the suit. More ways to conjure the optimal look and to get the right proportions, are the material, the surface, the pattern and the design.

What lapel for that face?

Make a test. Pull your favorite jacket on, imagine the mirror, pull down a page and change the lapel width. You can see how the altered shape affects the overall appearance.
 
To find a general rule for fashionable collar and lapel is difficult because it is strongly dependent on the taste. From today's perspective, the cuts from the 1970s are seen as appalling. At that time they were with the extra wide lapels just hit. Today, it is rather the reverse, it is: the smaller, the better.
 
However, there are rules of thumb: Anyone who has a thin face should choose a broad section of lapel and collar, so as not to let it appear even narrower through a small incision. Conversely, a wide face should be underlined by a narrow shape.
 
The following photos show more creative options for lapel collar and carrying combinations of the studio by Holger summer.
 

 

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